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A letter home from a fascinating and beautiful place.
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this newsletter was produced by Kate Cough

A letter home from Iceland's fast-melting glaciers


I was very lucky to travel last week to what instantly became one of the most fascinating and beautiful places I've ever seen: Iceland. My family spent several days road tripping along the island's south coast, stopping at volcanic craters, cliffs full of puffins, black pebble beaches, hot springs and waterfalls in a green moonscape dotted with sheep. All this, and glaciers — ice-capped volcanoes and ice-covered mountainsides, melting toward the sea. 


The parking lot at the Icelandic glacier called Sólheimajökull was said to be entirely covered by ice about 120 years ago. When we pulled up, we walked 10 or 15 minutes along a muddy glacial lake to the glacier's current "snout." Ice had receded from that entire distance in only a few generations. 

Breiðamerkurjökull glacier in Southern Iceland as seen from Jökulsárlón, or Glacier Lagoon, on Aug. 15. This large iceberg (foreground) had calved off of the glacier's "snout" or leading edge (background) a few hours prior. The black stripes are layers of ash from past volcanic eruptions. Photo by Annie Ropeik.

At Jökulsárlón, we took a Zodiac across the frigid meltwater, dodging blue icebergs freshly calved off the glacier known as Breiðamerkurjökull. A half-asleep harbor seal eyed us from a small ice floe. We slowed in front of the jagged front edge of the glacier, striped with black layers of volcanic ash. Echoing creaks, cracks and an occasional splash hinted at more ice breaking and falling. 


The country's main ring road crosses Jökulsárlón where it turns from lagoon into tidal inlet. A submerged barrier, meant to keep larger bergs from smashing into the highway, has needed perennial repairs. As the glacier retreats, the lagoon will eventually become a fjord.


'Faster than a political cycle'


Seasonal ice melt is natural, as is the cyclical ebb and flow of glaciers across thousands and millions of years. What's not so natural is the pace at which it is happening now, according to renowned glaciologist Paul Mayewski, who directs the University of Maine's Climate Change Institute. 


"Greenhouse gasses increased over the last few decades by 50 percent more than it had ever been in the rest of the last million years, and 100 times faster," he told me this week. "All of a sudden, because of our emissions, this whole thing was really fast forwarded." 


And some of the resulting changes happen alarmingly fast. Mayewski sees the period of 2007 to 2012, during which Arctic warming spiked, as "the first abrupt climate change of the modern era.”


Mayewski led the team that discovered the possibility of abrupt climate changes in the 1990s (loosely inspiring what I know you will be shocked to learn is one of my favorite movies, The Day After Tomorrow). They found evidence of these shifts in an ice core from the 10,000-foot-high summit of Greenland's ice sheet, containing layers of preserved chemical signals dating back 100,000 years. 



Skaftafellsjökull in Southern Iceland, with the glacier at right and a kettle hole — a depression left by a huge chunk of melted glacial ice — at left. Photo by Annie Ropeik.

Over the millennia, these abrupt changes — which can happen "faster than a political cycle" and certainly within a matter of decades, he said — have at times coincided with the fall of empires


There's complex science behind how this happens. For purposes of current ice-melt trends, one crux is that glaciers are made of fresh water, which thins the salty seas as it melts into them. Less dense water doesn't sink the way it should, slowing the flow of warmer surface water across the Atlantic. 


This affects the weather in the short term while leaving longer-term marks on the oceans: more melting of sea ice, warmer lands and waters at the edges of glaciers, and more melting of the glaciers in turn. This causes rising seas and myriad other effects. Mayewski said one change that has arrived in force in Maine, thanks to our especially fast-warming ocean, is worsening coastal storms. 


An abrupt climatic shift — perhaps caused by the collapse of an ice sheet or a pulse of methane from thawing permafrost — might appear in hindsight as a climate tipping point.


This will not look like The Day After Tomorrow. It will be protracted and diffuse, even if only spread over a matter of a few years. It will likely manifest in massive droughts, fires and floods that lead to unprecedented mass migration and increased instability and struggle across the world. 


"If you suddenly tell people that 10 years from now, the tipping point occurs and we're toast, nobody's going to do anything," Mayewski said. 


Instead, he frames it this way: "These things will occur. They can be moderated dramatically by our behavior, but we also need to be prepared for them, and we need to be planning."  


Exchange and empathy


Eco-tourism, like what I did in Iceland last week, of course has serious environmental impacts of its own. The air travel industry, if it were a country, would be the world's sixth-biggest emitter.


There was an acute irony in staring down the visible signs of rapid human-caused climate change from amid a carbon-fueled throng of tourists, even in the most renewable-powered nation on Earth


But Mayewski said he's all for eco-tourism done responsibly. It shows people the power and scale of these changes firsthand, he said, and that helps their family and friends appreciate it too. 


I watched this happen for my mom in Iceland: As she realized just how quickly those glaciers were melting and understood humans' effect on that speed, she was horrified. She's already very climate conscious, and yet the firsthand experience of something so clear-cut made a harsh impression. 


“It's critical for people to think beyond their own small borders and worlds," Mayewski said. "The more exchange we have — the more we can empathize with situations which we are fortunate enough not to experience — the better off we are.”


ICYMI


Catch up on the latest installments in Climate Monitor co-author and Monitor editor Kate Cough's series on the future of Maine's salt marshes, Sinking in Saltwater, and stay tuned for more. Plus: Derrick Z. Jackson went to see the puffins on Seal Island



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More puffin coverage from Maine Public. A super useful disaster preparedness guide from Grist. A new report detailing the extreme state of the climate in 2023. And a look at the forecast for electric vehicle batteries with 600 miles of range

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While The Maine Monitor does not place its content behind paywalls, some newsrooms we link to in this newsletter may. 


Federal government grants first floating offshore wind power research lease to Maine | AP News


1,600 gallons of firefighting chemicals containing PFAS are released in Maine | AP News


Clean up underway at former airbase after firefighting foam containing PFAS was discharged | Maine Public


Toxic foam that spilled at Brunswick airport was due for removal next month | Bangor Daily News


Maine DEP downplays Brunswick chemical spill risk to private drinking wells | Portland Press Herald


'Foam is being blown by the wind here, there, and everywhere': Brunswick PFAS clean-up continues | NewsCenter Maine


EPA to start removing asbestos from Caribou steam plant soon | The County


Asbestos forces partial closure of Maine elementary school | WMTW


Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument unveils Tekαkαpimək Contact Station | Maine Public


After early doubts, locals warm to Maine national monument | Bangor Daily News


Why Maine businesses are facing crippling solar fees | Bangor Daily News


Solar developers take aim at farmland protection rule | Maine Public


What it’s like for a County truck driver to battle a massive wildfire in Oregon | The County


Orrington facility to begin accepting waste, but not yet producing energy | Maine Public


Bigelow lab receives $7 million for algae research, business development | Portland Press Herald


On-time and brighter: Maine's fall foliage outlook promising | WGME


Forest tent caterpillar outbreak causing damage to Maine maples used for sugaring | Maine Public


Maine's turkey vultures: Unsung heroes in nature's cleanup crew | WGME

Know of a story that we should be digging into? Send it to our newsroom. 


The Maine Monitor is a publication of the Maine Center for Public Interest Reporting, an independent and nonpartisan nonprofit news organization that produces investigative journalism. We believe news is a public good and keep our news free to access. We have no paywall and do not charge for our newsletters. If you value the reporting we do for Maine, please consider making a donation! We cannot do this reporting without your support.

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